Rome is one of the most historically significant cities on the planet. The Pantheon remains the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome after nearly 2,000 years. The Colosseum has stood for nearly two millennia. And Piazza San Pietro and the Trevi Fountain are among the most recognizable public spaces anywhere.
So perhaps surprisingly, Romans themselves are very progressive, open-minded, and forward-thinking as they preserve and celebrate the history of the Eternal City. In fact, when it comes to the diet of Italians, nearly 10 percent identify as vegan or vegetarian, according to a 2024 report by Eurispes—a national research body that tracks lifestyle trends in Italy. So it’s not surprising that Rome offers so many innovative, vegan Italian restaurants.
Il Margutta
Where Rome’s vegan scene began
I started my culinary adventure on the elegant Via Margutta, which is known as the street of artists. Near the Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps, I found Il Margutta, a beloved restaurant among locals and tourists that opened in 1979. Self-proclaimed as the “first vegetarian restaurant in Italy,” the eatery also serves as a hub of artistic expression, where art exhibitions rotate every few months alongside the seasonal à la carte menu.
Walking in, I was immediately struck by the candlelit tables glowing beneath hanging plants, the artwork covering every wall, and the warm aromas of garlic and herbs wafting from the kitchen.
Half the dinner menu and all of the pastries are vegan, and I love that the desserts are made with extra-virgin olive oil. Most of the dishes are organic, with fruit and vegetables arriving daily from local growers. The restaurant’s seitan and selection of bread—including focaccia and crisp grissini breadsticks—are all made in house.
The vegan Genovese ziti pasta featured Gondino—a popular brand of aged Tuscan vegan cheese made from chickpea flour and with a similar aroma and flavor to aged pecorino and parmesan. The ziti was served in a slow-cooked golden Cannara onion sauce that was sweet, silky, and deeply mellow from hours of patient cooking.
With accents of juniper, bay leaves, rosemary, and black pepper, the Grilled Plant-Based Fillet arrived smoky and boldly aromatic. A Primitivo di Manduria wine reduction added a deep warmth, and the Jerusalem artichoke purée beneath lent an earthy nuttiness to the dish. The highlight of the meal was the crunchy phyllo mille-feuille dessert. Its crisp layers of golden phyllo gave way to cinnamon-baked apples, raisins, and walnuts. Rum-flavored vegan cream added sweetness along with the scoop of vanilla ice cream served alongside.
Rifugio Romano
Roman classics, reimagined
Located only a few steps from Termini station, in a neighborhood not particularly known for culinary thrills, lies one of the most talked-about vegan destinations in the city. Rifugio Romano serves Roman classics such as spaghetti cacio e pepe, cannelloni al pomodoro e besciamella, spaghetti alla carbonara, and mezzamanica alla gricia—a classic Roman dish built on cured pork, pecorino cheese, and pepper—all veganized.
Rifugio Romano was named after a refuge because the founders wanted “to create a place where anyone could take refuge, where anyone could feel free to be themselves. A place to feel at ease, whatever way of living they chose, whoever they chose to be.” The restaurant recreates traditional Roman recipes like carbonara and amatriciana (a Roman sauce of tomato, guanciale, and pecorino) using plant-based ingredients, and the results are impressive. Rifugio Romano offers a wide array of authentic Italian dishes including pastas, salads, pizzas, local wines, and desserts like panna cotta and tiramisu.
Buddy Veggy Restaurant Cafè
You’ll find Buddy Veggy Restaurant Cafè in central Rome near popular destinations like the Pantheon, the Basilica di Sant’Andrea della Valle, and Campo de’ Fiori—all convenient when you’re sightseeing and want to rest and refuel. That’s exactly what brought me into this cozy café with its touches of classical Italian décor and mouthwatering Roman dishes. The restaurant was imagined as a place to reinterpret traditional Roman cuisine using only plant-based ingredients, “without ever sacrificing taste and conviviality.”
Buddy Veggy’s Amatriciana meatballs are a plant-based riff on a Roman classic: I savored every bite of the tender meatballs in tomato sauce, made with chickpeas, lentils, vegan bacon, and the sharp, salty bite of vegan pecorino. The vegan puttanesca—with tangy tomato sauce, olives, capers, and oregano—came together with soy tuna for a dish that was punchy and satisfying.
For a more refined take on Italian plant-based cooking, there’s Ma Va’?, a warm, inviting spot that opened in 2015 in the Prati neighborhood just north of Vatican City.
This eatery serves vegan versions of classic regional pasta dishes made with natural ingredients and creative techniques. The highlight of any meal at Ma Va’? might be the torta di carote e nocciole con crema di vaniglia, a moist, nutty carrot and hazelnut cake finished with silky vanilla cream.
Romeow Cat Bistrot
The most unusual dining room in Rome
In the Ostiense neighborhood—a former industrial district that has transformed into one of the city’s most vibrant creative quarters—Romeow Cat Bistrot gave me one of the best afternoons I had in Rome. It’s a bohemian café that elicits smiles from the moment you walk in with its calming ambiance and precious cats roaming about.
Clearly loved and cared for, these cats are free to come, go, and enjoy their privacy as they please, although many do enjoy the company of the doting patrons who make a stop here. I went for the cats, but ended up being wowed by the food.
I started with something fun: mini vegan hot dogs dressed with sweet cucumber relish, carrot ketchup, and sauerkraut. The handmade ravioli dish was my favorite; it had a bright, fresh broad bean filling balanced by sharp, salty vegan pecorino.
I also tried one of the more adventurous plates on the menu: jackfruit in tartar sauce with sesame-kissed marinated zucchini and a base of golden fried green tomatoes, which totally delivered. Be sure to make a reservation before you go, and rest assured that it’s worth the short trip outside Rome’s historic center. I was awed not only by the restaurant, but by my walk around the Ostiense neighborhood itself. Its streets are covered in some of the finest street art in Rome, the enormous murals painted by Italian and international artists—bringing new life and vibrancy to the facades of former industrial buildings.
Mater Terrae
At the top of the city
For a truly special, elevated dining experience, Mater Terrae is an elegant vegetarian restaurant located on the rooftop of the Bio Hotel Raphaël near Piazza Navona, a Baroque square famed for its fountains and street artists. Along with the delicious food, I loved the incredible views over the city’s rooftops. As I looked out over Rome and savored my plant-based soup, I knew the wish I’d make when I threw a coin in Trevi Fountain later that day. While I can’t share my wish, I hope to return to Rome and try even more of its delectable food soon
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