Three years ago, chef Jorge Pineda revealed that, together with fellow chef Angel Ramos, he would be opening the fourth iteration of New York’s beloved Candle restaurant brand. From the start, the bar was high. The first Candle Cafe opened in the 1990s and was so beloved that it led to two more entirely vegan concepts: Candle 79 and Candle Cafe West.
But due to various challenges, including real estate developments and building safety issues, all of the original Candle restaurants had closed by 2020. Pineda, who spent decades working at the original locations, hoped the new Candle Cafe would successfully build on the brand’s legacy in New York. But it wasn’t to be.
In August, Pineda announced that the new Candle Cafe would be closing amid mounting debt and a difficult economic climate. Speaking to VegNews, the chef confirmed that its final day of regular service will be September 30. Pineda also opened up about the factors that contributed to the closure, including his sense that diners never quite embraced the new venture in the same way they had the original restaurants.
Find out more in our conversation below, including what Pineda believes made it so difficult to keep Candle going, what’s next for the longtime chef, and the details of Candle’s final farewell dinner.
Candle Cafe
Can you talk us through what led to the decision to close Candle?
Over the past two years, the cost of operating a restaurant has increased significantly across the board, including food, gas, electricity, rent, and labor. Like many independent restaurants, we have felt the impact of those rising costs, and I believe vegan restaurants have faced additional challenges as vegan options have become increasingly common throughout New York’s dining scene.
How has the growing availability of vegan options across New York affected dedicated vegan restaurants like Candle?
It’s extremely challenging [for all independent restaurants] right now. For vegan restaurants, I believe the challenges can be even greater because plant-based options are now available at so many restaurants throughout New York.
While I think that growth is positive for the vegan movement overall, it has also made it increasingly difficult for independent vegan restaurants to distinguish themselves and remain financially sustainable.
Candle Cafe
Were there any other challenges specific to Candle that contributed to the closure?
I also felt that Candle no longer received the same level of support from the vegan community that it had in the past, particularly after the original owners were no longer involved. Ultimately, my decision to reopen Candle came from a personal belief in what the restaurant represented. Candle was always meant to stand for kindness, community, and good, healthy food. I wanted to give that legacy another chance.
“To me, Candle was never just about food. It was supposed to represent peace, community, kindness, and acceptance of everyone, regardless of their background or their story. I am proud that I was able to carry those values forward, even for a short time.”
So, with that in mind, what comes next for the Candle brand?
Candle will not be reopening as a restaurant, and I do not have plans to bring the Candle name back in the future. Looking back, I believe my biggest mistake was trying to keep the Candle name alive rather than allowing the brand to exist as it was originally known.
Do you think the Candle name and its connection to the original owners made it difficult for diners to embrace the restaurant in its latest chapter?
Some people felt that the restaurant would not be the same without the original owners involved. I understand and respect the connection people had to them and to the original Candle. At the same time, I hope people also recognize that I have been a chef for 25 years and have spent approximately 30 years working with Candle. I have carried these recipes and this food with me for decades. They are a part of who I am.
Looking back, what are you most proud of about Candle and its contribution to New York’s vegan and plant-based dining scene?
My personal dedication to Candle and my belief that it has always been something unique. Candle was one of the early pioneers of vegan dining in New York, and I have dedicated a significant part of my life to the restaurant and its values.
Candle Cafe
You’ve dedicated decades of your life to Candle. What has the restaurant meant to you personally?
When Candle 79 opened, I worked there for 10 years without taking a salary because I truly believed in the brand and what it represented. The recipes, techniques, and philosophy of Candle are deeply ingrained in me. That is ultimately why I chose to reopen Candle.
What’s next for you? Are there plans for another restaurant or another similar venture?
I am not ready to walk away from the work that I love. I would like to create something new under a different name, although I am still figuring out exactly what that will look like. It could potentially include cooking classes, social media gatherings focused on teaching people how to cook, private chef events, catering, or perhaps a smaller restaurant concept. Whatever comes next, I hope to continue creating food and experiences that reflect the same values that Candle represented to me: kindness, community, connection, and good food that fuels.
Before Candle closes on September 30, Pineda confirmed to VegNews that the restaurant will host a “special farewell” four-course prix fixe dinner on September 19, from 5pm to 10pm. Reservations for the farewell dinner are still available through Resy.
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Charlotte is a VegNews editor and writer based in sunny Southsea on England's southern coast.
