Vegan in Japan

Atop Koyasan, a 3000-foot mountain 40 miles south of Osaka in Japan’s Kansai region, sits the country’s largest cemetery. A major tourist site, it provokes reverence rather than morbidity or mourning. “Nobody can count how many [graves there] are,” says 85-year-old Kiyomi Soeda, proprietress of the Rengejo-in Buddhist temple on Koyasan.

Upon arrival, a bath was drawn for us in a spotless, citrus-scented bathroom. Our room opened like a porch onto rock paths and a grove of thin bamboo trees. Sliding the shoji doors open, effectively removing half the wall, we dangled our feet as drizzle fell from the rooftop.

Guests at Rengejo-in are encouraged to attend afternoon and early morning meditations, which last about 45 minutes. Special English-speaking meditations are offered, and they include a short lecture on either meditation form or the history of the temple. The meditation itself was hard for me, but left me feeling peaceful afterwards, and delighted to feel the cool mountain air.

After meditations, student monks serve guests lavish dinners: soups, yuba (tofu skin, a Kansai delicacy), rice with azuki beans and pickles, a cold tempura of nori (seaweed), sweet potato, and ume (sour pickled plum), somen (noodles) in broth with pickled mountain veggies, and tiny pieces of fried tofu.

We sipped pale, mild green tea and ate several helpings of sweet, vinegary rice. Shojin-ryori—vegan temple cuisine based on the changing seasons—is an art form performed by Buddhist monks, who don’t kill or consume animal products, and is one of the main draws for tourists to Koyasan.

Over the years, Koyasan has become an increasingly popular destination among Japanese travelers, as well as international visitors curious about Japanese Buddhism, history, and cuisine. Whether you’re a practicing Buddhist or simply in need of a quiet getaway in a beautiful setting, Koyosan fits the bill.

Destination Details:
Rengejo-in
700 Koyasan, Koya-cho
Ito-gun, Wakamaya-ken
0736-56-2233
japaneseguesthouses.com